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Organic Gardening |
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by Frank and Vicky Giannangelo |
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Sublimating Vapor
The clean, evenly cut firewood was neatly in-between four metal t-posts, two on each end, set about 16 inches apart. There were glances of appreciation given by those who were with us. Earlier that morning, we too had cut and split some juniper and stacked it on the porch near the front door.
People’s woodpiles increase with the heaviness of the morning’s frost. In the winter design, firewood is a local motif, the first of the many that develop as the cold winter progresses.
Being used, and reused, juniper fence posts have a longevity of usefulness. We took apart the old and rebuilt a new coyote fence made out of old juniper posts previously used as a windbreak at our old garden site. We rebuilt the fence to define our new parking area, not only creating a safety barrier for a drop off, but also creating a backdrop for the new gardens planted below it.
Wood comes into play even more in our lives as we just finished a 16’ x 20’ carport, built with split western red cedar - old telephone poles that were used years ago before the milled and treated pine poles that are used today.
We had a 20’ x 40’ tarp we had previously used to cover firewood, so we were able to go over the top of the carport and cover two of the sides. The overhanging sides were rolled up in battens and nailed to the poles at the bottom.
The carport stops the increasing frost on the car windshield that gets harder to scrape off as mornings get colder.
Even though we have had several lows of 19 degrees, we still have greens, herbs, and hardy perennials growing in beds lined with thick stones, absorbing the heat during the day and radiating enough heat at night to prevent any frost damage.
Frost is formed when water vapor goes directly from a vaporous state to a solid state. This process is called sublimation, and depends upon the loss rate of energy. Water vapor is in a higher energy state than liquid water, and liquid water is in a higher energy state than solid water (ice).
These different stages of cooling are called the dew point temperature (when the temperature is above freezing), and the frost point temperature (when the temperature is below freezing). The amount of moisture in the air determines when condensation, or sublimation, will be produced.
Black frost is formed when the temperature falls below freezing after dew has formed.
Two other types of frost are rime and hoar. Rime frost is common during fogs, where super-cooled air comes in contact with subfreezing surfaces. This form of frost is opaque and has a grainy appearance that forms spikes, or needles. It does not have a recognizable crystal structure and is harder and denser than hoar frost.
Hoar frost generally forms when winds are light and the night is clear and cold. Growing from an initial seed of ice, hoar frost gives us shapes of feathers, ferns, or flower patterns that we are most familiar with, especially in non-mountainous areas. It forms first on glass and metal surfaces, materials that radiate heat quickly and therefore cool quickly.
When frost begins to spread to the ground, it starts in the lowest regions. Once ice crystals have formed, further frost accumulation may proceed by the depositing of water vapor directly on the ice already formed. When the temperatures are colder, water vapor is deposited directly on a surface through a process called deposition.
A.N. Whitehead wrote that, “Life is an offensive, directed against the repetitious mechanisms of the universe”. Just as frost surrounds us in potential, waiting for the right conditions to sublimate and appear in a changed form, so do we exist in a climate of expectation, waiting for conditions that will, once ripe, bring about an entelechy of higher aspirations.
And, like hoar frost that appears suddenly, we will change the state in which we live, spread across the land, and grow.
Copyright © 2006
Giannangelo Farms Southwest
Soon on our website: http://www.avant-gardening.com/ eazy construction plans for The Greenzbox® - feed a family of four fresh lettuce and salad greens all summer with a 32 square foot raised bed back yard garden!
Frank and Vicky Giannangelo
Registered NM Organic Gardens
Giannangelo Farms Southwest
Avant-Gardening: Creative Organic Gardening
http://www.avant-gardening.com/
"What is Organic Gardening?"
"Man is a part of nature, and his war against nature is inevitably a war against himself.”
Rachel Carson
ORGANIC GARDENING starts with good soil. When crops are deprived of basic nutrients they languish. Organic soil amendments and conditioners pay for themselves with increased plant productivity. Healthy plants grow more vigorously, taste better, store longer, and better resist insect attacks. They have greater resistance to the cold, heat, drought, and disease. Successful soil building best addresses the soil’s long-term needs by remedying deficiencies organically. Chemical fertilizers add unwanted nitrates or salts to the soil, as well as leaving chemical residues in the food. Organic gardening is growing without chemical fertilizers, naturally building the soil to support healthy plant life. Chemical fertilizers and additives will, over time, damage the soil's ability to provide what plants need to resist disease, insect attacks, and stress. Soil depletion of organic nutrients is one of the main causes of unhealthy plants and disease.
RECIPE FOR SOIL DEPLEATION:
Pesticides + chemical fertilizers = Infertile soil, stressed plants, and insect attacks.
RECIPE FOR SOIL BUILDING:
Organic fertilizers + microbial activity = Soil fertility, healthy plants, and resistance to insect attacks.
A healthy, organic garden produces strong plants that are able to withstand adverse conditions. The consistent traits and habits needed to make good soil can also help build fertility in our lives. Those things we do to create a healthy garden can become the tools needed to explore, change, and enhance our daily lives through:
Assessment - the plan of action
Decision – the choice to act
Implementation– the act itself, the doing
Success in the garden proves the efficacy of these tools, and as we use them to expand our gardens - the garden of our yard, and the garden of our soul - we expand all the aspects of our lives.
Organic soil amendments and conditioners can renew the life of your soil without adding unwanted chemicals. Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium are the basic providers of nutrients in the soil. Trace minerals provide the rest.
Soil can either be acidic or alkaline, or neutral – the soil’s pH. pH is the symbol for the logarithm of the reciprocal of Hydrogen ion concentration in gram atoms per liter. For example, a pH of 5 indicates a concentration of .00001 or 10-5 gram atoms of hydrogen ions in one liter of solution. Acidic soil has a pH range from 1 to 6.5. Alkaline soils have a pH range from 7.5 to 10. Neutral soil has a pH of 7. Lime, oak leaf mold, peat moss, rotted sawdust, and soil sulfur will lower the pH in an alkaline soil. For acid soil, add dolomite lime, or oyster shell lime. For the best results, add these amendments in the spring when soils are warming and microorganisms are active. Most plants grow well in a pH range of 6, but will tolerate a pH between 5.5 – 7.
Organic soil-building should include the addition of the following organic nutrients:
HUMUS - organic matter in various stages of decay. It increases water-holding capacity, modifies soil structure, stimulates plant growth, permits root penetration, and helps to correct soil imbalances. Some forms of humus are found in compost and animal manures.
NITROGEN - contains proteins and is a food source for compost piles (grass clippings, green vegetable matter), and it stimulates green growth in plants. Sources are blood meal, cottonseed meal, alfalfa meal, fishmeal, and fish emulsion.
PHOSPHORUS - stimulates root growth and promotes fruit and seed maturation. Good sources are soft rock phosphate or bone meal. Deficiencies are indicated by purple leaves, brittle roots, skinny stems and late fruit set and maturity.
POTASSIUM - promotes plant vitality and disease resistance. Sources are Greens and, also known as Glauconite, sulfate of potash, wood ashes, or Sul Po Mag. Deficiencies are indicated by an irregular yellowing of lower leaves, and poor root growth.
CALCIUM - important for plant cell wall integrity, root development and leaf growth. Low levels show up as deformed new leaves and branches, weak stems and roots. A good source for calcium is gypsum, which can also lower the alkalinity of the soil.
MAGNESIUM - essential for chlorophyll and green leaf development. Pale green leaves with green veins are a sign of deficiency. Adding dolomite lime to raise the pH in an acid soil often corrects this deficiency. In an alkaline soil you can add Magnesium Sulfate.
SULPHUR - used to lower pH in alkaline soil, and it is a stimulant for soil microbial life. Use sparingly. A good source is soil sulfur, or calcium sulfate – Gypsum.
TRACE MINERALS - found in compost, kelp meal, algae meal, and seaweed meal. These can provide boron, copper, iron, sulfur and zinc.
OXYGEN - one of the most important fertility components in the soil - it stimulates microbial activity and allows free root growth. Humus, peat moss, compost, and aged manure tilled into the soil help to increase the air spaces in the soil enabling plants to utilize the available nutrients. Soil should be loose and never walked on, which only compacts it. Tilling wet soil too early in the season can also destroy soil structure by compacting it, and squeezing out the pockets for air.
SUSTAINABLE GARDENING - one of the most important things about gardening organically is that the process can become sustainable over time. Sustainable soil building begins after the initial soil testing and the addition of organic fertilizers and conditioners, and continues by organically maintaining and improving the soil over time. Sustaining the soil means being able to replenish nutrients with what you have at hand – organic compost, beneficial microbes, enzymes, and earthworms. Ideally, once the garden is established it can be sustained with garden compost alone, using the microbes in your soil to inoculate your compost, which feed your soil.
WORMS - Vermicomposting uses earthworms to make compost. Worms can eat their body weight daily in organic matter and convert it into dark, soil enriching castings full of live micro organisms, growth hormones, and nutrients, humic acids which condition the soil, and a neutral pH.
COMPOSTING - Billions of decaying organisms (25,000 bacteria placed end to end equal one inch) feed, grow, reproduce and die, recycling garden waste into an organic fertilizer and soil conditioner. Composting is the ultimate recycling process – improving soil structure, increasing the soil’s ability to hold moisture, providing soil aeration, fertilization, and nitrogen storage. It buffers pH, releases nutrients, and provides food for microbial life.
PLANTING COVER CROPS - this "green manure" is grown for the sole purpose of being tilled into the soil to add organic matter. It will help keep moisture from evaporating, regulate the soil temperature, keeping it cooler in summer and warmer in winter. By providing an insulating blanket, microbes and earthworms will thrive. The more worms in your garden, the more they can break up, fertilize, and aerate the soil. Beneficial insects are also attracted by cover crops; alfalfa can attract parasitic wasps, lady beetles, damsel bugs, big-eyed bugs and assassin bugs. White clover can attract Tachnid flies, ground beetles and parasitic wasps that prey on aphids, scales, caterpillars and white flies. Most grains will attract lady beetles. Clovers and vetches can attract minute pirate bugs. Fava beans and buckwheat can attract predatory and parasitic wasps, syrphid flies and bumblebees.
CROP ROTATION - Crop rotation also helps to prevent soil deficiencies. By using different plants in different beds, you can avoid depletion of nutrients because each plant has different needs. Planting a legume after a heavy feeder such as corn, will replenish the nitrogen in the soil. Rotate your root crops, leafy crops, heavy feeders, and cover crops. if you keep a garden journal you can keep track of what you planted, and where and when you planted it.
PROVIDING GOOD DRAINAGE - Good drainage is essential to soil health. Too little drainage makes a soggy soil which prevents root growth, nutrient absorption, and compacts the soil. A perk test is an easy way to determine water drainage through your soil. Dig a hole six inches across by one foot deep. Fill with water and let drain. As soon as the water has drained, fill it again. Time how long it takes for the water to drain. If it takes more than 8 hours, you have a drainage problem. Add sand, gypsum, chopped straw, vermiculite or perlite to increase the drainage. Too much drainage can be determined by a water test. This will tell you if you soil drains too quickly, leaching nutrients and causing plants to be watered more frequently. Water well a small portion of your garden. Two days later, dig a hole 6 inches deep. If the soil is dry to the bottom of the hole, your soil drains too quickly to promote good plant growth. Add peat moss, vermiculite, perlite, composted manure and mulch well to prevent evaporation.
"When the planes still swoop down and aerial spray a field in order to kill a predator insect with pesticides, we are in the Dark Ages of commerce. Maybe one thousandth of this aerial insecticide actually prevents the infestation. The balance goes to the leaves, into the soil, into the water, into all forms of wildlife, into our selves. What is good for the balance sheet is wasteful of resources and harmful to life.”
Paul Hawkin from The Ecology of Commerce
COPYRIGHT (c) 2002 by Frank and Vicky Giannangelo
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Frank & Vicky Giannangelo
Registered Organic
Gardeners
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Frank and Vicky Giannangelo have been gardening organically for 30 years and are New Mexico Registered Organic Gardeners.
Giannangelo Farms began in 1986 on San Juan Island, Washington - an island off the coast of Washington State, 10 miles from the bottom of Vancouver Island, British Columbia.
After creating formal, patterned, raised bed, sustainable organic gardens, starting a business, and expanding as much as we could handle without hiring anyone, we sold our business in 1993 and moved to Arizona, where we spent three years creating and
coordinating the building of a large formal herb and vegetable garden for a private community.
Since 1997, we have lived in northwestern New Mexico in an area presenting many challenges, altitude, erratic spring weather, a short growing season, and a 7,300 ft. high desert environment - which is allowing us to use our experience and creativity to establish Giannangelo Farms Southwest.
There are formal gardens, pools, and ponds surrounded by a hay bale stucco wall, garden beds with rock retaining walls, three pergolas for private formal teas, a labyrinth, garden trellises, and greenhouses - all of which are open to the public year around.
We give a series of spring and fall "You Can Grow!" Workshops on how to do basic rockwork, build hay bale stucco walls, and how to create sustainable organic gardens - with an emphasis on the problems of growing in this area.
In the summer we sell organic herbs and vegetables to a coop market in Gallup, and participate in a local Saturday's farmer's market. Sustainable Organic Gardening CD ROMs are available on our website.
NEW on our website:
"Biodiversity and
Genetic Engineering"
http://www.avant-
gardening.com/
biodiversity.html
TAKE VIRTUAL PHOTO TOURS:
avant-gardening.com
Our newsletter is now
published monthly in a new online magazine:
avant-gardening.com
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